Preparing Your Quilt

Backing Preparation Instructions

First of all, I think the newer extra wide fabrics make the best, easiest and least expensive backings. Minkee even makes a 90 inch width (more about Minkee below). If possible, get the sales clerk to tear the ends to make sure the grain is not warped too much by handling after production. I see more extra wide fabrics every time I shop. Even so, they are not for every quilt, soooo….

The backing fabric is a huge 'patch'. It adds needed strength, stability, and straightness to the top and batting. If it is not 'square' it will load onto my machine unevenly. Some areas will sag, while other sections are taut, possibly resulting in pleats in the backing or a quilt that will not lay flat. A good, square backing is best. If you piece the backing try to make sure that the lengthwise grain is going the same direction in all sections.

Some quilters like pieced backings. These can be attractive and cost effective, but the stability that you get with an uncut piece of fabric is gone, increasing the possibility of tucks or folds stitched into the back, or a quilt that does not lie flat.

Determine the size the back should be… measure the top and add 8 inches (10 for Minkee) to the length and width (ex.: the top finishes 40 x 60 so the back would be 48 x 68.) Please don't skimp on this. A longarm isn't like a regular sewing machine, where you can sew right up to the edge of the fabric. The backing is pinned and clamped in place, so the edges cannot be sewn. In addition, the part of the sewing head under the needle is wider than you might expect and needs room to move freely.

Remove the selvages before stitching one half inch backing seams--they are woven much tighter than the body of the fabric. They will not quilt evenly and will probably not shrink evenly. You can leave them on the outside edges. Backing seams should be one-half inch, and pressed open. The whole back should be pressed. Please don’t fold it along the seam, or it will need to be ironed again.

Minkee and Similar Backings

Minkee and similar fabrics can be a wonderful backing or a pain. Some longarmers refuse to quilt these fabrics. I have done many quilts with all types of backings. Get what you want, but, please be careful with it.

The stretch is crazy. When you buy it, make sure it is completely relaxed when it’s measured so that you get the full measure. It can also be stretched on the longarm. If that happens, the fabric will relax later and pull up the entire quilt more or less. I hate to ask for 10 extra inches on Minkee, but I think we will both be happier with the results.

Do not iron it if you can avoid it. It’s polyester and will not act like cotton. The manufacturers set the beautiful textures in with heat. If you iron the type that has dots, the dots may disappear, since they are set in with heat.

Minkee is now available in a 90 inch width. If you have to piece Minkee, make sure the nap is aligned so it doesn’t look like two different fabrics. Very carefully, avoiding stretching, stitch a 1.5 to 2.0 inch seam, depending on how wide the selvage is. Do not press this seam.

Fabric with a deep pile, including lots of Minkee can show up on the quilt top in undesired ways. When stitching, the top thread goes down beneath the quilt, grabs the bobbin thread and draws it up. The fluffy pile in the fabric can be pulled up along with the thread, and sometimes pokes thru the top. The first backing I quilted with a heavy pile was green, and it looked like grass was sprouting on the top!

Top Preparation, Delivery and Insurance

How do you prepare your quilt for Happy Stitches? There are a few things that will ensure the results we both want. Every time an inexperienced quilter brings me quilts, we find teaching moments, and the longer that person quilts, the better the tops are. I never judge a person’s piecing skills. Usually they just need more experience. I love watching most clients’ expertise grow, but everyone is different. Some are not interested in my teaching moments. That’s fine. I’ll still quilt their quilts. I just prefer a result that is square and flat.

Square and flat go together to produce a beautiful quilt. Square means the corners are 90 degree angles, no matter the dimensions of the top. A quilt top that is not square, is usually not flat.

Before you piece--

1. The number one lesson in quilting is to make a scant quarter-inch seam consistently. If you have mastered that, great. I’ll never get done writing this page if I go into lots of detail here, so if you need help, here is a YouTube video, or just ask me. The more seams in a quilt, the more wavy-ness will occur with an inconsistent seam allowance.

2. Adding borders is not as easy as most quilt patterns say. Learn the correct way to add borders. Again, a link to YouTube, or let me know if you need help.

After the top is done—

1. If your outer border has lots of seams (for example a piano key border), please stay stitch the edge within the seam allowance.

2. While you give the top a final pressing, check for seams that may have pulled loose, or popped open. This often happens where the patches are small and the seams short. Also remove loose threads, because it is a lot easier to do before it is quilted and they can look really bad where light fabrics are used.

3. Make sure all applique pieces are securely attached.

4. Do not add buttons, crystals, or any other embellishments until after quilting.

5. Do not cut scalloped edges or rounded corners until after quilting.

6. Do not pin or baste the layers together. All three must be separate for longarm quilting.

7. If one edge is ‘the top’, safety pin a note indicating so at the top. Same goes for the backing, if it has a 'top', please let me know. It may not be as obvious to me as it is to you.

8. Be sure to draw my attention to anything unusual like 3-D patches, raw edges or flaps or anything else I need to know about, but may not notice on my own.

Remember, proper preparation ensures Happy Stitches and beautiful results!

You are welcome to bring your own batting. If you do, it needs to be the same size as the backing. If it is packaged, just bring the whole package. I have Hobbs Premium 80/20 batting and Hobbs Tuscany 100% wool at competitive prices. It is all on rolls, so it is nice and flat.

If you live in the Four Corners area, call me and we can arrange a convenient meeting. My 'studio' is in my home, so a prearranged appointment is necessary. Otherwise--To protect your work, put the quilt top and backing in a plastic bag before boxing it up. Please do not mail quilts without first contacting me.

Happy Stitches, LLC is not responsible for lost shipments. I suggest you buy insurance if you want to be reimbursed for the value of your quilt if lost during shipment. The standard post office insurance is very limited. While your quilt is in my care I insure it for $500, and I will insure it for $500 on the return shipping. Return postage will be charged at the lowest cost method plus the fee for signature confirmation on delivery.

Please mail quilts to:

Happy Stitches, LLC
4450 Bella Vista Cir.
Farmington, NM 87401